The Independent Ear

New Orleans Newcomers Diary #3

A Bit of the Yin & Yang of Life in the Crescent City

Columnist Chris Rose, in the 1/16/08 edition of The Times-Picayune newspaper, wrote a humorously penetrating column on the eternal question those of us who live in NOLA inevitably face when venturing out: “How’s New Orleans Doing?”  This question is particularly acute for someone like me who is still a relative newcomer to the city, and may even be posed in a more pointed manner.  My standard response is this city is a place of enormous Yin & Yang — a term loosely generalized here to denote Positive & Negative — and the Yin outweighs the Yang… so far.  Or as Rose characterizes it: “things are much better than they are worse.”

 

It’s so easy to forget for a moment the Yang of life in New Orleans, to momentarily dismiss the misery index that might be lurking just around the corner.  If one were to confine oneself to the areas most visitors experience — namely the French Quarter, the Garden District, and most of the Uptown area (where we live and where the Monk Institute is housed at Loyola University) — one would get the impression that all’s well nearly two and a half years after the calamity that is referred to here as The Storm. 

 

The Monk Institute engages jazz masters to visit Loyola on residency teaching gigs with its grad students on a monthly basis, for weeklong stints.  Thus far such illustrious artists as Ron Carter, Lewis Nash, Nnenna Freelon, Danilo Perez, Benny Golson, and John Scofield have come down.  Danilo Perez in particular got an eyeful.  Initially once on the ground he hopefully exclaimed that all seemed well, all appeared to be back together, up and running.  That is until the program’s education coordinator Jonathan Bloom (musician and member of the family of the late clarinet master Alvin Batiste, Edward “Kidd” Jordan, Kent Jordan, Marlon Jordan, Stephanie Jordan, etc. and a family musician tradition going back seven generations), who literally knows where all the bodies are buried, took him on the obligatory Yang tour of such neighborhoods as the now-infamous Lower Ninth Ward, Gentilly, and Lakeside.  To see street after street of either ruins or ghostly concrete slabs where once were lively homes is a sobering immersion into the Yang of New Orleans ’08.  And we’re talking about black folks’ neighborhoods here — but not purely poor folks’ neighborhoods; black folks of all stripe have suffered over the last two+ years of lingering misery index.  The gap between have and have-not in New Orleans is as stark as any I’ve envisioned — even dating back to my former life in the euphemistically titled “criminal justice system” in my post-grad days.  Danilo and the other masters who’ve been on this tour through the lingering misery came away changed.

 

The Yin: the spirit here remains very high.  I have a friend who lost four houses to the Storm.  After decades of paying out homeowners insurance he settled for a grand total of $80K… for FOUR HOUSES!!!  But like so many he is determined to slowly but surely remake those houses, to make them viable dwellings once again — on his own.  You see and experience so much of that spirit that it raises your own sensibilities and optimism.  All over town are legions of work crews, largely Latino, working steadily to rebuild the many ruins.  Traveling a short distance from home to the monthly and quite bustling outdoor marketplace (for a Midwesterner who spent 18 years in the Northeast, the mild, often balmy winter weather here is a major Yin) at Freret & Napoleon on a lovely Saturday afternoon in January we navigated our way around work crews and the occasional neglected ruins — caved in roofs, sides ripped off, in all manner of disrepair — sitting starkly alongside homes brightly decorated for the holidays.  The market was buzzing — a blues band raucously followed the Treme Brass Band onstage while we were there soaking up the spirit… the Yin of New Orleans.

 

It’s Mardi Gras season and the spirits are further boosted.  The markets are chock full of seasonal king cakes and all manner of goodies designed to get your food & drink on for carnival season.  And if you think Mardi Gras is all about that fratboy French Quarter nonsense you see on television… think again.  We’ve learned in no uncertain terms that idiocy ain’t the real Mardi Gras, and we should prepare ourselves for a grand old time.  This weekend is the must-see Krewe du Vieux parade with its over-the-top humor and jamming brass bands — the Yin fo’ sho’.  All these years of disinterest in Mardi Gras based on no interest in that other ridiculousness appears to have been missed opportunities.  We’ll be right there chasing down the Mardi Gras Indians activities like so many Mardi Gras season revelers.  At times like these its so easy to forget the misery index… but it’s here, perhaps just around the corner. 

 

But again, the spirit is strong & high and the will to overcome must inevitably triumph.  The Second Line parades have been jumping every Sunday since late summer.  The rich African cultural traditions embodied in those parades is soul deep and yet more manifestation of the Yin of New Orleans.  The community radio station here, WWOZ 90.7 FM (sample it’s eclectic, New Orleans-centric music menu around the world at www.wwoz.org), is supported nearly as much by folks outside this region who yearn for that New Orleans’ sound as part of their daily life rhythm.  Each odd hour of the day WWOZ runs the Live Wire, detailing who’s playing the clubs.  For a city whose populace is still creeping towards 300,000 from it’s pre-storm 400,000+, the amount of musical joy to be found in its myriad clubs on a nightly basis is amazing.  And some of these joints have 9:00 a.m. hits and others that begin at 2:00 a.m.!

 

After 18 years on-air at beloved WPFW in Washington, DC part of my New Orleans’ Yin is finding opportunities on WWOZ, a station about which I’ll speak in detail next time.  Stay tuned…

Peace,

Willard Jenkins

Jazz Cultural Warrior

 

 

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Think you’re ready to play a festival? Part 1

My experience as artistic director of two jazz festivals — the 29-year old Tri-C JazzFest Cleveland and the emerging, 7-year old BeanTown Jazz Festival, produced in Boston by Berklee College of Music, tends to load my snail and email boxes with inquiries from artists and bands seeking employment.  But festivals are a different animal from clubdates and concert engagements.  In the case of Tri-C JazzFest, the nature of our festival suggests that it is difficult at best to present artists making their first appearance in our market.  Our audience can be characterized as a ‘show-me’ audience; they’ve got to have some measure of comfort with an artist or concert billing in order to plunk down their well-earned ticket dollars.  Put simply, rarely will our audience buy tickets to artists they do not know.  BeanTown is another matter entirely, primarily because its core event is free of charge.

 

Recently I was afforded an opportunity to speak with the student musicians of the Thelonious Monk Institute’s graduate studies program at Loyola University on the subject of artist readiness in terms of approaching jazz festivals for performance opportunities.  Here are some of the stress points of that conversation:

 

Do your research

  • Get the major jazz magazine annual festivals directories which list pertinent festival information and contact information.
  • Investigate festival web sites: Determine who, what, when, where info, but also carefully research their booking patterns, who and what type of artists they are likely to present.  Ask yourself a question: do they book and present lesser known or emerging artists?  Is there a place at this festival for my kind of music?  Do they present student ensembles?  Do they have a significant jazz education component?  (These last two points were stressed to the Monk ensemble because they are uniquely poised to work education-based jazz festivals.)  Educate yourself thoroughly on what these festivals present, how/where they present (# of venues, etc.).

You must have a recent recording.

  • To exemplify who you are and what you play, to use as a "calling card" to substantiate your artistry; a recording to be made available to the presenter for the targeted festival’s local radio outlet and PR/Marketing efforts, etc.  NOT a demo — a commercially-available recording, even if it is only available through web or downloads.

 

Communications

  • Communicate with festivals and presenters in a collegial manner; don’t be "pushy"; keep them abreast of your activities without pushing or being an annoyance; be in touch respectfully.  Be pleasant and persistent but NOT insecure and pushy.  Take the position in your mind that my music is so good that sooner or later this person is going to hire me.  Be confident and savvy in your communication.  Make it your point to meet & greet, but not in a pushy way — there’s a fine line you need to walk.

This is the first in an occasional series of tips towards festival readiness for artists and bands.  Your response and input is welcome.  I should note that in the case of Tri-C JazzFest Cleveland as a means of presenting newer artists to our community in situations that do not have ticket sales pressures we created our Debut Series of free concert performancesDrop us a line if you’re interested in how to be part of our Debut Series.

Posted in The Presenter's P.O.V. | Leave a comment

Remembering Sekou

Last April one of the highlights of the 28th annual Tri-C JazzFest Cleveland was the appearance of poet-writer-conceptualist Sekou Sundiata as our special guest at our now-annual Jazz Meets Hip Hop evening.  What began eight years ago as our effort at bridging the gap between our festival’s core music, jazz, and the late-20th century music phenomenon known as hip hop and a means of showing the commonalities and root source relationships between the two genres has now blossomed into an essential annual component of the festival.  Throughout these eight years the one constant has been our music director for that evening, drummer-percussionist Bill Ransom.  Working closely with Bill we’ve engaged rappers, turntablists, and a variety of instrumentalists steeped in both genres as guest collaborators with Bill’s core ensemble to present evenings that were decidedly more jazz in their leanings but that boasted a vibrant hip hop component as well.  A few years ago, inspired by his two amazing CDs Long Story Short and The Blue Oneness of Dreams, and having met the man through my occasional working relationship with the Brooklyn-based arts presenting organization 651 Arts, Sekou Sundiata was invited to participate in Jazz Meets Hip Hop.  On the occasion of the Langston Hughes Centennial Sekou and I co-produced an amazing evening of poetry and music for 651 Arts at the St. Ann’s space in the lower Brooklyn area near the river known as DUMBO.  I was eager to get Sekou into the Jazz Meets Hip Hop mix because although he was neither a rapper nor a product of hip hop culture, the relationship of his brilliant performance poetry style (many remember his kinetic performances and out-of-their-league maturity alongside the other fairly green performance poets on Russell Simons Def Poetry Jam on HBO) to hip hop — a relationship not unlike that of jazz master and emerging artist — compelled his participation in our series.  So powerful was his first appearance, which also included his music director at the time pianist-keyboardist Marc Cary (another true seeker), that we brought him back for a joyous return — this time working alongside a rapper — for the 2007 edition of Jazz Meets Hip Hop.

 

I also felt a closeness to Sekou from his very unique relationship with good friend and fellow WPFW programmer Katea Stitt.  Katea was one of the real beacons of my 18 years on the WPFW airways.  In 2002 Katea, her then significant other Sven Abow, their lovely daughter Johanna, Suzan and I traveled to Fes, Morocco to produce some special programming for WPFW from the annual World Sacred Music Festival.  We returned the following year to do likewise at the Gnawa and World Music Festival in Essaouira, Morocco.  Backing up a bit to Sekou, about a decade prior when the poet was in desparate need of a kidney transplant it was Katea Stitt who gave him that wonderful gift of life.  Katea had provided Sekou with management services for years; so I felt an even greater sense of closeness to this incredible poet.  Thus the shock was doubly deep when Sekou passed on to ancestry last summer after suffering a major heart trauma.  In September, 2003 I interviewed Sekou for the former webzine Africana.com.  You may have missed that piece so as The Independent Ear’s way of remembering Sekou Sundiata, here’s a re-print of that piece.

 

The Africana Q&A: Sekou Sundiata

by Willard Jenkins

    Poet Sekou Sundiata is in the vanguard of American poets.  He writes, records, and performs on a broad range of topics, including: growing up in Harlem, Amadou Diallo, slavery & reparations, Mary J. Blige, making bombs from bullshit, and Jimi Hendrix – in short, he has referred to his style as "Rhythm & News."  He delivers his brand of R&N in a subtle, baritone voice that won’t blast you out of your seat, but will leave you with an impression of great substance.

 

Sundiata, a tall, medium built man of chocolate complexion prone to wearing hip hats (dig the great red straw on the cover of his album Long Story Short), is a man of easy manner, good humor and deceptively languid eyes that somewhat mask the intensity and keen socio-cultural awareness within.  Blessing The Boats, Sundiata’s current one-man production, deals with his past as a kidney disease survivor and kidney transplant recipient, an understandably essential element of his life.

 

We spoke with Sekou from his Brooklyn home about the state of performance poetry, his current show, his inspirations, his recording career, and the planning process for his forthcoming major production.

 

Willard Jenkins: In light of the seemingly increasing currency of poetry slams, culminating in HBO’s Def Poetry Jam, on which you made a notable appearance, do you consider yourself a performance poet?

 

Sekou Sundiata: No, not at all; this thing about spoken word artists and performance poets, I think of it mainly as marketing categories.  I’m satisfied with just calling myself a poet.  The way I came through, in terms of studying poetry and the people I came up with in poetry, we all identified ourselves with the whole tradition of poetry, going back to ancient times.  Performance poetry, spoken word and all that, I think that goes back to… I don’t even know if you can go back 25 years with that.

 

WJ: I guess it’s kinda like musicians who have little use for categories and would prefer to be just known as a "musician" rather than an X-category musician.

 

Sekou: Exactly, and also under the banner of performance poet and spoken word artists, some people are poets and some are not; some are actors, comedians… and that’s okay, but its very different from thinking of what tradition you ground yourself in as an artist.

 

WJ: What is the current state of performance poetry?  Has it been taken to new heights through venues like Def Poetry Jam?

 

Sekou: That’s a big question [chuckles], I don’t even know if I can assess that, if we talk about performance poetry or even more especially spoken word, there seems to be a lot happening, a lot of different types of venues and opportunities: slams, open readings, open mic, etc.  But in the larger world of poetry, including poets who are not performers but who do read, it’s always been one of America’s best kept secrets.  There have always been thousands of readings each year, many poetry festivals and series at universities across the country.  But it looks pale when you compare it to a mass market-driven, commercial art kind of thing.

 

WJ: Certain elements of the so-called mainstream might have you think that there is increasing energy for poetry being performed onstage, in light of things like Def Poetry Jam.  Where would you say Def Poetry Jam fits in all this?

 

Sekou: I think there is a level of activity — some of which I think relates to poetry and some of which doesn’t, but that falls under the category of performance or spoken word.  I think that has a great deal of visibility.  So what many people mean when they say poetry, they mean that and only that.  There is a much broader world of poetry and poets that has a long-standing tradition in this country.  It’s very highly organized.  That hasn’t enjoyed as much attention as the spoken word realm, but it is durable; you would think it was a secret.

 

WJ: You’ve worked with bands in the past.  What kind of ensemble are you working with these days?

 

Sekou: I’m in a transition period.  I’ve been working with one band for the past five or six years and I’m getting ready to begin another project that is more related to improvisationally-based music, which I guess some people would call jazz, but I shy away from that term as a descriptor because I think at this point in time when you say that, unless you can really explain what you’re talking about to people [jazz] means so many different things to different people, and so many things fall under that heading now.  Things that I never would have thought of as jazz before you see programmed in a jazz festival for example.  But the key thing I’m working with now — I’ve been working with it all these years but I’m really trying to highlight it now — is this marriage of composition of black music, especially music we call jazz.  One of the cornerstones is this meeting of composition and improvisation; what is scripted, what is given, and then what happens in the moment.

 

WJ: When you say improvisation, are you suggesting that there could conceivably be situations where you would be working with a band and you might go onto the stage without any kind of blueprint and basically freely improvise?

 

Sekou: No, there’s always a blueprint, and I improvise now, meaning that things are not laid out; meaning that — in terms of the texts that I’ve written, I add lines, I take away lines, I repeat lines, I change structures around in the course of one performance, I change the way one piece flows and segueways into another, in terms of what’s written and how I perform it, all those techniques, I do all of that now, I’m just looking to do it in a more heightened way — always with some sort of blueprint in mind.  It’s not just starting out completely from scratch.

 

WJ: Is there any relationship between your work and rap?

 

Sekou: I don’t know, I guess the first thing that comes to mind is the most obvious — spoken text over music.  On my last recording I used some "hip hop beats" but — first of all I don’t really rhyme, sometimes I rhyme but it’s not a goal, to rhyme.  My approach to the beat is really displaced, off-centered, as opposed to kind of loked-inside the beat; so only in a very general sense [is there a relationship to hip hop].  In terms of theme or thematic approach, I like to think to some extent what I might have in common with an MC is that I’m trying to bring the news of the day.

 

WJ: I ask that in light of Def Poetry Jam being a program that is centered around poetry and poets but is hosted by Mos Def, who is identified as a hip hop artist, though it is clear that he has a lot more to say than most of the pop-level hip hop artists.  Are there any correlations between what you do and what he does, for example?

 

Sekou: Mos Def does sort of stand apart from the crowd in his knd of rootedness in black culture and black tradition, you certainly hear that in his work and that’s always been at the center of my work as well.  I think that’s something you find in the most conscious hip hop artists, this idea that we didn’t just grow whole, we come out of something, and that there’s a rootedness there and at the center of that root is black culture and tradition.  By that I mean particularly black music traditions, black language, black linguistic strategies, humor, what we think is hip and beautiful.  If you listen to some of Mos Def’s rhymes or some of the ways he uses language we could have a conversation about those linguistic strategies.

 

WJ: In your pieces you write and speak on the human condition.  What has to happen before an inspiration kicks in to energize you to write?

 

Sekou: Not much [laughs]; it doesn’t take much man, I mean at this point poetry is an art but it’s also a craft, which is to say it’s also a practice.  Part of that practice is that in some way I feel like I’m always writing.  I’m always collecting lines, images, and titles… in many ways it’s a way of life; you’ve got to be open to what the moment to moment possibilities of any day are.  I was laughing, but it’s really true. it doesn’t really take much.  I just got through teaching a class this summer and ended up talking about Parliament Funkadelic.  There’s a tune that P-Funk has where they sing that the funk not only moves, but it removes.  And I just off-handedly said, ‘boy that would make a nice epigram for the beginning of a poem!’  In my mind it’s always like that, its always kinda churning.

 

WJ: One influence and reference in your work is an Afro-Latin sensibility.  I guess that stems from your coming up in Harlem.  Living in New York you can’t help but come under that influence in your art.

 

Sekou: Yeah, and even inside of that even more particular; I was born in Harlem Hospital, lived in Harlem and I grew up in East Harlem, so my closest friends were black and Puerto Rican kids.  I grew up at a time when there was a very close relationship between blacks and Puerto Ricans and Cubans.  We wore the same clothes, we dated each other, we ate at each other’s houses, we all danced to the same music…  All the black kids I knew… if you couldn’t dance to Latin music you couldn’t dance.  It wasn’t enough that you could do the boogaloo, you had to be able to Latin too.  So we went to the Latin dances and our heroes, as well as the Motown heroes, were also Eddie Palmieri, [Johnny] Pacheco, Tito Puente, Johnny Colon, the Lebron Brothers, all that stuff…  We bought those records, went to the Palladium and Hunt’s Point Palace…  We couldn’t understand a word of the lyrics they were singing [laughs] but we’d sing ’em all in our beat up Spanish and we’d sing them from our hearts.

 

So I think about it, in some way, Spanish — as it was spoken by Puerto Ricans and Cubans in New York — is somehow a part of my linguistic vocabulary.  Some of my first thoughts come in Spanish, and I’m not fluent in Spanish!  I don’t know if that’s true in generations after mine.  This kind of split happened between Latinos and black people, much of it in a very false split for political reasons having to do with the War on Poverty and the way money went down, and all that kind of stuff.  I don’t think you have that kind of cultural unity [now], although hip hop does bring people together.  One thing I love about Latino culture, to this day, they really are into live music.  And they get dressed up, any day of the week, especially at the Copa where top bands play, people get dressed up and they go dancing.

 

In October, 2003 Sekou was in residence at the Kennedy Center for a project related to his kidney disease and subsequent transplant titled Blessing The Boats.

 

WJ: What do you generally do in the course of such a residency?

 

Sekou: In this case, with this particular piece, which is my show Blessing the Boats, a contemplation of my years of dealing with kidney disease, dialysis, transplantation…  This work falls into this category – art and public dialogue; so that as the piece travels, I usually do a residency which involves hooking up with either the state or regional organ procurement network, National Kidney Foundation, medical schools, and they bring nurses, surgeons and other health care professionals.  We do panel discussions and forums, generally educating and promoting the idea of organ and tissue donation.  There’s an organization called MOTTEP, which was founded by a Dr. Calendar in DC, which really focuses on organ and tissue transplantation.  It’s a national organization, especially around African Americans and kidney disease, given the fact that African Americans have the highest rate of kidney disease in the United States, and also the highest rate of kidney disease in the world, which I just found out in the last few months and which is really astounding.  Even more so than black people from elsewhere in the Diaspora!  So those are the kinds of things we’ll be doing; it’s a one-man show, I use recorded music and really beautiful video projections,

 

Fortunately Sekou next realized a dizzingly brilliant major performance piece called Dream State, a potent commentary on the human condition that employed a band, vocalists, and extraordinary video projects before he passed on to ancestry.  You owe it to yourself to seek out his recordings The Blue Oneness of Dreams and Long Story Short.

 

Posted in Artist's P.O.V. | 1 Comment

NOLA Diary Pt. 2

Second to no other U.S. community New Orleans is steeped in it’s own set of cultural traditions.  Every Sunday beginning around the end of April through years-end there’s a Second Line parade in town.  Reading news of Brad Pitt’s well-publicized and strikingly sincere Lower Ninth Ward housing renewal project (go online to the Times Picayune archives and search through the week of December 3 for details) he remarked about why he and Angelina Jolie have purchased a house in the French Quarter and plan on spending significant time in the Crescent City.  He spoke of the surprise joys of a parade going by his house one Sunday — for no apparent reason he knew of — and how such occurrences help sustain his love of the community and deepen his desire to do his part for the city’s post-Katrina renewal (including putting up $5M of his own money towards his current housing development project).  This is one celebrity project that seems to be about more than self-aggrandizement.  But I digress…

 

One well-chronicled parade tradition is the New Orleans jazz funeral, an especially rich tradition when it honors renowned local legends.  Allow me to introduce you to Doc Paulin.  Trumpeter Ernest "Doc" Paulin was born June 22, 1907 and passed on peacefully to ancestry 100 years, five months, and 28 days later.  In between he left an indelible music legacy, which I unfortunately was only introduced to at his passing.  Raised by Haitian grandparents in rural Louisiana, Doc’s trombone playing uncle introduced him to music at a young age and encouraged him towards the cornet because he evidenced such proficiency in the art of whistling.  Young Ernest Paulin, who only later became known as "Doc", was hooked and soon became good enough to play around his area.  At 21 Doc moved to New Orleans because that was the place for serious musicians.

 

He soon organized a band that performed at various haunts in the legendary Storyville District and joints on South Ramparts Street.  Encouraged by his brother Doc moved to New York and once he learned the ropes he found himself on several famous bandstands, including Harlem’s Cotton Club and the Zanzibar.  Following his discharge from the Army in 1945 Doc returned to his beloved New Orleans.  Thereafter he ran numeroous brass and traditional jazz bands.  Doc and his wife Betty grew a family that included six sons who matriculated to the Paulin Brothers Brass Band, which has paraded various New Orleans functions for over 40 years, including numerous performances at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. 

 

Doc Paulin considered it his mission to keep the brass band traditions of New Orleans alive and functioning and was a mentor to numerous young musicians around the Crescent City in that signature idiom.  He was also described as a community activist in his obituary, including voting rights activism.  His last official gig came at the ripe young age of 96 at the 2003 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival.  Given such a background it was no surprise that Doc Paulin’s funeral would represent the essence of New Orleans jazz funeral tradition.

 

I’ve never been one to attend funerals or memorial services of those I don’t know, but persistent email messages from well-respected New Orleanians like Don Marshall, executive director of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation, jazz writer Geraldine Wycoff, and through the encouragement of our friend Nancy Oscenslager who lives the most active retirement I know after 30 years at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and a nursing career, Suzan and I determined that this was a funeral parade not to be missed.  We were also compelled by the Thanksgiving weekend visit of our daughters and our desire to give them some "real" New Orleans experiences on their visit.  It seems that experiencing such an event is tantamount to becoming immersed in the cultural traditions of New Orleans.  And besides that, every message we received about Doc Paulin made it clear that here was a truly important figure in 20th century New Orleans music.

 

When we arrived at the Holy Ghost Catholic Church on Louisiana Avenue in the Uptown area of the city it became clear immediately that we weren’t alone in the curious "interloper" category as numerous folks who apparently had no deeper ties to Doc or his family than we did had gathered in anticipation of the funeral parade — which incidentally was mapped out in several emails I received, as is the case with the weekly Sunday Second Line parades.  Shortly after we arrived those who had celebrated Doc’s life at the funeral began pouring out of the church; numerous trumpets, cornets, trombones, tubas, clarinets, snare drums, and bass drums among the masses.  The brass band musicians, including the Paulin Brothers Brass Band and members of the marching Men of Labor assembled at the front of the processional.  Behind them were other gathered celebrants — later to become the Second Line — and behind the Second Line was a horse drawn hearse bearing Doc Paulin’s remains and a shiny limousine bearing Doc’s widow and some of his prodigious family (Doc and Betty gave the world 13 children).

 

Driven by assorted traditional dirges the likes of "The Old Rugged Cross", the musicians and traditional marchers led the police-escorted Second Line down Louisiana Avenue to St. Joseph Cemetary No. 1 at Washington Avenue and South Liberty Street.  All this transpired while numerous video cameras whirred, and assorted newspaper & art still photographers captured the moments.  Though any funeral is a somber occasion, when one lives as long and rich a life as did Doc Paulin one’s passing on to ancestry is cause to celebrate a life well-led.    New Orleans is one of the few cities in the world where cemetaries are tourist attractions, primarily because due to it’s below sea level existence those deceased who are buried in New Orleans proper are buried in crypts above ground.  This tradition gives New Orleans cemetaries a look like none other; rather than assorted low-lying plots and headstones marking below ground burials as one might see in most other locales, a New Orleans cemetary is one of vividly visible mausoleums and assorted above grounds structures marking final resting places.

 

Once at St. Joseph Cemetary No. 1 the processional halted as the horse drawn hearse arrived at Doc’s designated mausoleum.  The Rev. David Thereaux further eulogized Doc and a rather stentorian younger man gave remarks relative to his life well-led, including a remarkable breakdown of Doc’s life from years to months to weeks all the way down to the many million seconds of life Doc Paulin enjoyed on this plain.  The sheer mathematics of this breakdown was impressive, not to mention the breadth and depth of Doc Paulin’s life.  That was followed by a young woman facing west and delivering a beautiful muted taps, not like what one might experience at Arlington Cemetary, more Crescent City-style and quite moving.  Her performance elicited several "that girl sure can play that horn" asides from assorted celebrants within earshot.

 

The time had arrived to truly celebrate Doc Paulin’s life New Orleans-style.  The assembled brass and drums struck up a joyous processional that included numerous old standbys of joy mixed with some decidedly non-traditional (but perhaps soon to enter the lexicon) numbers such as strains of Herbie Hancock’s 70s hit "Chameleon", several umbrellas danced in the arms of participants, including a traditionally-garbed woman who seemed to serve as parade marshall, and steps lightened in Second Line tradition as we made our way joyously back up to Louisiana Avenue and a restaurant repast destination.  This was truly a moment to be experienced only in the Crescent City.

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In what was characterized as an unusually early press conference, the New Orleans jazz & Heritage Festival held one on November 15 to announce what was obviously big festival news: the return of the Neville Brothers.  Anyone who has experienced Jazz Fest, particularly the closing weekend, knows that traditionally the Neville Brothers have delivered the Fest benediction on the fairgrounds’ big stage.  That tradition, along with so many others, was disrupted by the catharsis of the dreaded Hurricane Katrina.  Spread far and wide — as far away as Massachusetts — by Katrina evacuations, the Nevilles have missed the last two Jazz Fests.  Invited to return in ’07 Aaron Neville, the heavenly falsetto voice and for many the signature voice of the crew, who had relocated to Nashville, angered some locals and Fest goers with his refusal to return to NOLA due to what he feared were the environmental dangers to his asthmatic conditions.  That prompted a certain curious backlash from emailers who were greeted with the news of the Neville Brothers return to the Fest in the Times Picayune.  But for most what some considered an affront to their city, the news was yet another joyous symbol of a fervently hoped-for return to normalcy for the Crescent City.  Older brother Art Neville, on the cusp of his 70th birthday, was on hand to lend some funky keyboard to a performance by the Neville youngsters, including Aaron’s guitar playing son, who comprise the burgeoning offspring unit known as Dumstaphunk. 

 

Art later surprised and delighted Suzan by telling her that he was eager to come by the Monk Institute’s Loyola classrooms to experience the classroom science dropped by the auspicious crew of jazz masters who are imported to teach the Monk graduate studies students.  So far those master teachers have included Ron Carter, Lewis Nash, Danilo Perez, Nnenna Freelon, and Benny Golson, with John Scofield, Jimmy Heath and Kenny Barron soon to follow.  Art Neville was particularly eager to experience the teachings of Kenny Barron, proving once again that one is always a student of one’s craft.

 

Peace,

Willard Jenkins

12/2007

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NOLA Diary Pt. 1

Life in New Orleans might certainly be viewed as paradoxical.  The love/hate yin & yang of the place is as vivid as anyplace on earth I’ve ever experienced.  As some may know Suzan Jenkins was named Senior VP of the Thelonious Monk Institute last spring, in charge of the Monk’s auspicious graduate studies program which has relocated from the University of Southern California campus in Los Angeles to Loyola University on lovely St. Charles Avenue in the ever-recovering Crescent City of New Orleans.  This prompted a major relocation, which was finally achieved in October.  One of the upsides of my work is the fact that geographic locale is fairly fluid.

 

So off to New Orleans, loaded with curiosity, we went.  Driving back and forth from Loyola to the Monk offices, either tooling down St. Charles with its prodigious homes or driving bustling Magazine Street to our abode in the neighborhood known as the Irish Channel — adjacent to the leafy Garden District — there is scant evidence of the lingering misery legacy of Hurricane Katrina (known among the locals as The Storm or The Flood, rarely Katrina).  Skirting around those areas one sees evidence of many vigorous home reconstruction or rehab projects even in those places which suffered only wind and not water damage.  Adjacent to the more fortunate areas and homowners, every federal housing project I’ve spotted appears abandoned and it doesn’t take much to spot rows of completely abandoned homes.  We’re talking over two years later folks.  The latest post-storm population figures and increased influx of new residents announced last week in the daily Times-Picayune, have the New Orleans populace creeping towards 300,000. 

 

Having received a comprehensive driving tour of the devastated areas last August from musician-educator and Suzan’s colleague at the Monk Institute Jonathan Bloom, and benefiting from numerous conversations and anecdotes with various New Orleanians about the aftershocks of The Storm/Flood including musician-composer Terence Blanchard who is the artistic director of the Monk Institute grad studies program, I’ve gotten a quick education on that misery index.  Then on separate evenings the view became visceral — and in yet another paradox, it took an amazing cultural event to bring some things home.  As a good friend pointed out, out of great suffering comes great art.

 

Actor Wendell Pierce, who has a wealth of stage and screen credits but is likely best known currently for his ongoing cop role in the gritty HBO crime & punishment drama The Wire, grew up with Jonathan and Terence.  If you saw Spike Lee’s brilliant documentary "When the Levees Broke" you heard Wendell’s family tale of post-Katrina heartache.  Terence and Jonathan introduced us one evening at the Monk Institute student ensemble’s first of an ongoing series of performances and jam sessions at Tipitina’s.  One afternoon during visiting master educator-drummer Lewis Nash’s weeklong residency at the Monk Institute, while Bloom was giving Nash the by now de riguer tour of the devastated areas, Jonathan described Pierce as literally popping up out of the weeds in the now-infamous Lower Ninth Ward.  He handed Bloom and Suzan a flier for a forthcoming series of free, open-air performances of the famous Samuel Beckett play "Waiting For Godot."

 

The daily Times-Picayune ran an intriguing preview of the production.  So on a breezy Friday November 9 I picked up friend and colleague (and Katrina Fellow) writer Larry Blumenfeld to go "Waiting For Godot."  Some of you have likely read Blumenfeld’s penetrating ongoing series on the cultural significance of post-Katrina New Orleans and the recovery in the Village Voice, Salon.com, New York Times, or perhaps in Jazziz magazine.  As we crossed the St. Claude Bridge into the Lower Ninth Ward we were surrounded by the most vivid post-demolition images of post-Katrina New Orleans, a witches smorgasbord of blasted, gutted, toppled homes or concrete slabs where once stood a family dwelling alongside weedy fields where once stood a vibrant neighborhood of homeowners. 

 

We stood in one line for our free tickets (the turnout was impressive, a rainbow of faces that included every economic strata imaginable) then eased into another line for a free bowl of gumbo!  As the throng slaked its collective tastebuds, we joined The Big 9 Social Aid and Pleasure Club for a Second Line to the venue.  Where else on earth would this scene have evolved?  So Second Line we did, down the weedy block on pavement that had once been someone’s home street, around the vacant corner to a cryptic intersection (sign-less street poles still embedded) of two weedy fields and a temporary bleachers.  Just beyond stage left stood further reminders, a motley array of FEMA trailers.  What ensued was a powerful performance of Beckett’s "absurd take on the meaning of existence," that for this and three subsequent performances over the next two weekends, was salted with New Orleans and post-Katrina parallels and reference language in a manner that would have doubtless been greatly entertaining even for the great playwright.

 

Special thanks to The Classical Theater of Harlem and the Creative Time organization for mounting these incredible evenings.  Ah, but we’re not done with this one yet.  While Blumenfeld and I were enthralled by the performance, Suzan couldn’t hang due to a travel obligation.  So she determined to catch it the following weekend (11/9-10) when the setting was a storm abandoned home in the Gentilly neighborhood.  New Orleanians like nothing better than hosting good times — unless its being a guest at one.  The week preceding the Gentilly production of "Waiting for Godot" our new friend Danielle Taylor, a professor at Dillard University, hosted a pot luck supper for members of the Godot production crew and cast, including Wendell Pierce’s co-star J. Kyle Manzay.

 

As we drove the unfamiliar streets of Gentilly we were struck by its ghost town qualities.  Here was a middle class neighborhood whose Katrina devastation was nearly as brutal as that visited upon the Lower Ninth Ward.  Driving those streets I had a sense of deja vu; sure enough this was the same neighborhood we had once visited years ago when I conducted an extremely revealing oral history interview for the Rnythm & Blues Foundation with the great New Orleans R&B pioneer trumpeter-bandleader-arranger-songwriter Dave Bartholomew (recall all of Fats Dominoe’s greatest classics and you know the work of Mr. Bartholomew; but a small slice of his mastery).  In September ’05 when so many of us around the country were scrambling to account for the whereabouts of friends and loved ones in New Orleans, Dave Bartholomew and poet Kalamu ya Salaam were two of our major concerns.  Both had their lives ripped asunder, and though Kalamu has returned to the area, apparently Bartholomew has forged a new life in Houston.

 

Professor Taylor has a lovely home in Gentilly that has been thoroughly rehabbed.  As a constant reminder she keeps a framed photo collage near her front door of what she encountered when she returned to her home post-flood.  Her home took on 10 feet of water, necessitating a complete gutting and remodeling of her first floor; meanwhile she described the incredible contrast of her second floor as having been left in "pristine" condition post-flood!  That weekend’s ensuing Gentilly production of Godot took place this time in the backdrop of a devastated home and included commentary from the former resident of that home.  And the production — including hundreds of over-capacity turnaways, gumbo, Second Line and the whole bit — was described as equally incredible as the Lower Ninth Ward experience, though different based mainly on geography.

 

That same weekend of the Godot/Lower Nine experience Terence Blanchard brought his superb concert adaptation of the music he wrote for the "When the Levees Broke" documentary and subsequent Blue Note album "A Tale of God’s Will" (if ever there was certain Grammy material this is it) to the stage of Dixon Hall on the campus of Tulane University.  The New Orleans premier of this music with the Louisiana Philharmonic (it was also performed with orchestra on the preceding September’s 50th annual Monterey Jazz Festival) was another extremely touching post-Katrina experience — a catharsis for many New Orleanians in the packed audience, and certainly for Blanchard. 

 

Many recall perhaps the most heart-rending scene from "When the Levees Broke" when Terence accompanied his mother for her first look at her storm destroyed home.  That evening his mother sat front row center, her distinguished crown of white hair serving as poignant recall of the indelible images of the devastation wrought on the Gulf Coast for those of us in the ensuing rows.  While Terence and his quintet and the orchestra beautifully unwound his work, a big screen poised above the stage ran a stark series of Katrina stills in stages from pre-storm to aftermath.  Blanchard, whose trumpet playing these days continues to ripen and evolve in its mastery, blew great gusts of emotion that evening and one could see on his face what a soul checking process it must have been for him to sketch his feelings in music and subsequently perform that music.

Peace,

Willard Jenkins

New Orleans… proud to call it (new) home

 

 

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